Jheel Barad's Blog: Vadnagar: Historical town (Visit to Vadnagar)

VADNAGAR- AN ANCIENT CITY

(Project-based Learning under Viksit Bharat Abhiyan)

In the pursuit of holistic education, the Institute of India Education(IITE) in Gandhinagar organized an enlightening visit to Vadnagar – a town steeped in history. This immersive experience, part of the Project-Based Learning (PBL) initiative under the Viksit Bharat Abhiyan, aimed to provide students with a firsthand exploration of the cultural, historical, and educational facets of this ancient town. This blog offers concise insights into Vadnagar, providing a snapshot of the visited locations and the experiences encountered during the exploration.

Wandering through Vadnagar's streets, time seems non-linear, blending 4500 years of history in pottery, textiles, and tools from ancient agricultural communities. Traces of the 12th century are felt in step embankments and Solanki dynasty torans.

Echoes of Bhavai folk theater resonate in the Government Museum, with chances of street performances. Vadnagar boasts Gujarat's poets like Dayaram, and Narsinh Mehta, novelists like Govardhanram Tripathi, and musicians like Kaumudi Munshi, and hosts the Tana Riri Music Festival in homage to Nagar Brahmin sisters.

Buddhist presence emerges with a 2nd-century AD sandstone Buddha head, black polished ware-shreds with Brahmi inscriptions found in the Monastery at Vadnagar. The monastery, within the fortified area, featured votive stupas and a Swastika-like pattern of cells around a central courtyard.

Vadnagar: An Ancient Kingdom

Vadnagar finds its mention in ancient literature, Jain scriptures, and copper plates, which testify that Vadnagar was a famous city of ancient India. As per mythological scriptures, this city was known as 'Chamatkarpur' in Satya Yuga, 'Anartapur' in Treta Yuga, "Anandapur' in Dvapara Yuga and 'Vruddhanagar' or 'Vadnagar' in Kali Yuga. Apart from these names, Vadnagar was also known as 'Arkasthali', Chaunkanagar', or 'Chunkarpur' as well as 'Skandapur'. However, there is no firm opinion about when exactly this ancient city was established.

Nagarkhanda, a part of Skanda Purana (the largest of all 18 mythological scriptures) mentions Vadnagar as 'Chamatkarpur. As narrated in Nagarkhanda, one day, King Chamatkar was out on a hunting expedition. While aiming a male deer, he accidentally killed the female deer, who cursed him that he would suffer from white leprosy throughout life, Suffering from pain, the King sought advice from some renowned Brahmins, who asked him to take a dip in the magical water of the Shankh Tirth Lake. The king did as told; a miracle happened, and he was free of his curse, looking as radiant as ever. Ecstatic, he offered his kingdom and wealth to these Brahmins, but they refused, and instead asked the King to build a beautiful city for them to reside safely. King Chamatkar built a large city, which became famous as 'Chamatkarpur'. According to historical records, the King donated this city to the Brahmins.

Home to Brahmins, followers of Vedas and Nagars, Vadnagar became a thriving city of knowledge and religious presence, gaining prosperity and earning its fame as the 'Kashi of Gujarat'.

Historic Glory of Vadnagar

According to the Puranas, the name 'Anarta' was derived from Anarta, son of Sharyati, grandson of Vaivasvata Manu. As it was an important manufacturing and trading center for various products, Anantapur was made the capital of Anarta Pradesh. It is also said that Vadnagar must have been a popular center for Buddhism, Jainism, Shaivism, and Vaishnava faiths. The glory of the ancient city of Vadnagar echoed across boundaries, attracting not just traders, but students, local and global travelers, and spiritual knowledge-seekers.

Anartapur, established on the banks of the beautiful Sharmishtha Lake, fed by the waters of river Kapila, finds its mention in Mahabharata as well. The Anarta warriors - Satyaki and Kritavarma fought in the Kurukshetra War. Although, Anartapur rose to glory due to the war, as soon as the war ended, the loss reflected on its weakened military strength. As time progressed, Vadnagar was attacked and looted by many local and foreign rulers. With each attack, it stood up stronger, somehow maintaining its historical significance and identity. Vadnagar kept losing its Nagar Brahmins and other residents, who moved out of the city, seeking shelter elsewhere.

Vadnagar, a city of Brahmins, literary scholars, artists, sculptors, and singer-musicians... the land of pilgrimage places such as Hatkeshwar Temple and Sharmistha Lake, along with the fort enclosing the city with six-gates, Kirti Toran, Tana-Riri Memorial as well as marvelous vernacular architecture has made Vadnagar city an amalgamation of art, culture, and history.

Vadnagar Town Planning

Aparajit-Prichchha, a famous book on town planning elaborates on how well a town can be planned keeping in view the natural elements such as air, sunlight, and water. In this book, 'Pashchime tu Jalashaya' which translates to 'there should be a reservoir in the west' has been considered an essential part of town planning. The scientific logic behind this is that if there is a river or a water body to the west of the town, then the air coming from that side gets cooled, which in turn provides a sense of relief to the inhabitants of the town. Vadnagar is found to have been built based on this very scientific principle.

Vadnagar's old town is found inside the walls of a fort with six gates: Kirti, Arjun, Nadiol, Amarthol, Ghaskol, and Pithori. The town was added to the tentative list of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in December 2022.

Arjun bari darwajo (Gate

Write up on the Gate by Kavi Shripal (poet in Darbar in Solanki kal) in Prakrut Language.

Architectural Beautification during the Solanki Period

In 1152 A.D., Solanki ruler Kumarapal enhanced the fort in a city, constructing six unique gates. King Siddharaj built Lake Sharmistha with intricate stonework, featuring Arjunbari Darwajo gate on its shore. The gates showcased sculptures of various deities.

Kirti Toran in Vadnagar, an ornate archway, symbolized Solanki glory with delicate carvings in red and yellow sandstone. The Solanki dynasty contributed to the creation and renovation of temples, establishing a well-planned market, paved roads, and water structures like wells and step-wells.

Magnificent entrances in Dabhoi and Zinzuwada forts, Rani Ni Vav, Modhera's Sun temple, Rudramaal in Siddhpur, and Jain temples at Palitana, Girnar, Tauranga, Kumbhariyaji, and Mount Abu were credited to the Solanki dynasty, showcasing exquisite craftsmanship.

Must-Visit Gems in Vadnagar: Unveiling the Essential Spots Explored

Theme park- On musical ragas

A captivating theme park dedicated to Indian musical ragas awaits visitors, offering a unique experience. Equipped with specially designed headphones, guests can immerse themselves in the enchanting melodies of the six main ragas. Each raga, thoughtfully recorded for optimal listening pleasure, provides a harmonious journey through the rich tapestry of Indian classical music.

Sharmishtha lake

The ancient lake was developed during the Solanki period and continues to be one of the most scenic points in the city of Vadnagar popularly known as Sameda Lake

Sharmishtha Lake is also mentioned in the Puranas. It is believed to have been constructed by one of the most prominent rulers of the Solanki dynasty, Siddharaj Jaisinh Solanki, but it's believed that it was named after the daughter of the Som dynasty king, who undertook penance here. The early settlement was on the bank of river Kapila flowing from the hills of Aravalli. It fed water to a lake, known as Sharmishtha, at the site, and the settlement extended around it. Over some time the settlement grew into a city of considerable size.

Kirti Toran

Standing at nearly 40 feet, Vadnagar's Kirti Toran, installed by the Solanki rulers, boasts intricately carved images and has miraculously survived numerous attacks and invasions over the centuries. Toran, in Indian architecture, means an artistic arched gateway. Typically, the torans were built at the temple entrances, and banks of vavs (step-wells), wells, or lakes. Many times, when the temples were attacked and destroyed, and only the Torans survived as remnants, it was recognized as 'Yugaloni Chori'. In the oral tradition, Vadnagar's Toran is known as 'Kuwarbaini Chori'. The architecture of the Kirti Toran is very similar to the architecture of Modhera's Sun temple and Siddhpur's Rudramal (Rudra Mahalaya), which leads us to believe that these were built during the Solanki period. Owing to its intricate carving and exquisite sculptures, the Kirti Toran occupies a place of significance amongst Gujarat's Torans.

Shree Hatkeshwar Mahadev

The most significant of the attractions at Vadnagar is the Hatkeshwar Mahadev Temple, considered the Tamily deity of Nagar Brahmins. As per scholars' views, the garbha-griha (inner sanctum of the temple is adorned with an Antarala trief sponge a Mandap (an octagonal hypostyle hall, and three ornamental lateral porches in cardinal directions. The walls of the entire temple are adorned with exquisite sculptures. Mandovara Pitha (the wall that rises above the Shikhar or vertex), Mandap as well and the walls of the porches are adorned with sculptures of the nine planets, figurines of gods and goddesses, and scenes from the life of Land Krishna and events from Pandavas life. Among the sculptures found at the Hatkeshwar Mahades temple, the sculpture of Matsyavatar Vishnu stands out in terms of sculptural art with its upper half in a human shape and the lower half in the shape of a fish.

Buddhist monastery

In 1992, a Bodhisattva idol dating back to the 2nd-3rd century was unearthed in Vadnagar, with an inscription on the pedestal indicating it was donated by a nun for the Chaitya.

The following major periods of events have been identified through archaeological 'excavation at the site

1. Foundation of the first settlement: pre-Mauryan Period (pre-3rd Century BCE)

2. First fortified settlement: Mauryan & Post-Mauryan (3rd Century BCE-1st BCE)

3. Re-planned town with but brick Fortification: Kshatrapa-Maitraka - Solanki Period (1st Century ACE- 11th Century ACE)

4. Internal modification in town planning: SolankiSultanate-Mughal-Period (12th Century CE-18th Century ACE)

5. Period of present town planning: Maratha to Present (19th Century CE to date)

Historical Background

The Chinese Buddhist Monk Xuanzang or Hiuen Tsiang Visited Vadnagar (ANANDPUR) around 641CE He records, "there are less than 1000 monks of the sammatiya school or little vehicle in 10 monasteries." It suggests that Vadnagar was one of the important centers of Buddhist learning in Western India during that period. He also records Vadnagar as a capital city that has no king. The discovery of the monastery has proved hidden records true.

A Bodhisattva image was found in 1992 from an agricultural field, lying about 1 km southwest of this monastery site. Vadnagar is now an important site in Gujarat for the study of the spread of Buddhism and for understanding the historical and cultural development of the city-state, as literary references and archaeological evidence reveal.

Tana Riri

The Legend of Tana Riri

It is well known that Akbar, the great Mughal Emperor, was a patron of art and culture. Tansen, his chief musician, whom he considered one of the Navratna (nine jewels), was blessed with the gift of the knowledge of various ragas. One day, the emperor insisted he sing raga Deepak. Tansen pleaded stating the dire consequences but Akbar didn't budge.

While his singing lit up the lamps of the palace, it induced an intense burning sensation within Tansen's body. The only remedy for cooling it down was that somebody else truly sang raga Malhar. Tansen roamed around the country and came to know that there was a possibility of someone with knowledge of raga Malhar in Vadnagar.

He reached Vadnagar by nightfall and rested on the banks of Lake Sharmistha. Early in the morning, women started coming to the lake to fetch water. As Tansen was watching them closely, he spotted two women in particular filling their pitchers with water. They were sisters - Tana and Riri. No sooner did Tana fill her pitcher than she emptied it, and she did this several times. When Riri asked Tana, "Sister, how many times are you going to do this?" she replied, "As long as we do not hear the tunes of Malhar". Ultimately, Tana succeeded in filling the pitcher such that the water flowing in it emitted the tune of Malhar.

Tansen approached the sisters seeking help saying he was a Brahmin, and was made to sing raga Deepak on the Emperor's insistence. They took pity on him and sought permission from their elders to sing. As they started singing raga Malhar, black clouds of rain engulfed the sky, and by the time they finished, it was raining heavily. Tansen, completely drenched in the cool water, got rid of his burning sensation magically.

Despite knowing that only Tansen could truly sing raga, Deepak, Tana helped him as he had pretended to be a Brahmin. No sooner than his real identity was revealed, Tansen begged everyone present to forgive him. The people forgave him only on the condition that he wouldn't ever divulge details to anyone about Tana and Riri.

The Story behind Tana Riri Memorial

Upon returning to Delhi, Akbar asked Tansen how he was cured. Tansen was in a dilemma - If he gave away the secret, his promise would be broken, but if he didn't, he would be a victim of Akbar's wrath. Out of fear, he narrated everything that had happened at Vadnagar, praising the sisters' singing as well as their beauty.

Unfortunately, two of Akbar's princes eavesdropped the conversation. They planned on kidnapping the sisters for themselves. They reached Vadnagar by nightfall and picked a spot by Sharmistha Lake to rest.

When dawn broke, women started arriving at the shore to fetch water. As soon as Tana and Riri came, the princes recognized them with no difficulty, as they looked quite distinct from other women.

After filling their pitchers, they took the water-filtering cloth off and shook it in the air for drying. The princes took it as a signal for calling them. They approached the two sisters praising their beauty, but the women present there were shocked at the sight of two unknown men and started shouting for help. In no time, the people of the town rushed and caught the princes, beating them to death in the chaos. They buried them along with their horses on the shore.

On the other hand, over the absence of his sons, a worried Akbar ordered his soldiers to start the search. After some time, the news came that the princes had met with death in Vadnagar. Raging with fury, Akbar sent his army to Vadnagar to punish the people of the town and bring Tana and Riri to Delhi.

The army massacred all the people, burnt the city, and captured Tana and Riri. The soldiers put them in a palanquin and began their march back to Delhi. Tana and Riri were determined to die rather than go to Delhi, so when their palanquin reached the Mahakaleshwar temple, just outside the city gates, they sucked the diamonds they were wearing on their rings and died of the poison.

Their bodies were cremated there itself. Later on, two small temple-like structures were built there as their memorial. Set in a beautiful garden, the Tana-Riri Memorial is the venue for the music festival held annually at Vadnagar in their memo and memory. The city never forgot the sacrifice of Tana-Riri and continues to honor their memory with an annual music festival.

Lateri vav

This ancient stepwell, along with many others in Vadnagar, is getting a facelift and being converted into a tourist spot.

Much like the other water retention structures of the region, this vav too offered the option of walking downstairs to recover water. Along with that, this ancient structure does point to the fact that a farming civilization had its roots deep in the region.

Art Gallery